Japan 2009: Kyoto/Arashiyama and Tokyo

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The next day we went to Arashiyama. First stop: Nishiki for lunch. This kaiseki restaurant is extremely reasonably priced, and I was excited about finally trying the traditional cuisine. Our private room overlooked the river.
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The other side of our private tatami room. The place was amazing. We got ten plate meal for around 70 each.
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Greg enjoys the view. I had to call from the states and make reservations in Japanese to ensure we got in at this gem.
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I took pictures of some of the more photogenic courses. Let us see how much I can remember.
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Tai sashimi (sushi that is just raw slices of fish). They were quite specific on how some of the dishes were meant to be eaten. That flower is an herb, which we used to season our soy sauce before dipping the tai in it.
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Also served with it was fried tofu. The tofu was stuffed with mustard, which we pulled out and mixed with the sauce before eating. One of my favorite courses.
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Kaiseki centers around artful presentation, and fresh seasonal ingredients. Two of the plates came in a laquer box.
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In the top was a variety of foods. One was stored in a shell box decorated with scenes of the doll festival held at this time of year. The spiral shell also held something tasty.
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I was happy to find octopus in the pull out drawer on the box.
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An image of both plates displayed together
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Fish tied up and wrapped around some sort of vegetable, speared mushroom, pickles, and I think some sort of soup in the bowl.
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Here I am sitting at the table.
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Greg and I together.
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Desert. Greg had sherbet, but I was adventurous and tried sweet been soup with rice cake. Yum.
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Then we took a bus up to the northern end of Arashiyama, and strolled the mainly downhill journey back into town.
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I had learned from experience since my last journey that there WAS a bus which went up here. It made things more pleasant.
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At the north end of town were lots of traditional houses and streets. I'm still not sure if these are actual houses, inns, or what.
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The mountain sides were dotted with sakura starting to bloom.
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We went past some of the bamboo groves on the way back down.
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We enjoyed the scenery and the lack of the mobs found in the main part of town.
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We came back through the north gate of Tenryuji. I had visited this temple before, but not through the north gate.
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The pond near the main building.
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That night I went for some yozakura (night time sakura viewing). The trees on shirakawa doori were lit up.
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Lighting up sakura trees is quite common in Japan. They do illuminate beautifully.
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Very similar picture to one of the earlier ones I took in the day.
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I tossed most of my pictures that didn't come out. But this one was so festive, I decided to keep it anyway.
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A very typical shot in Kyoto, a traditional lamp right next to a street sign.
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The back streets of Gion. This is a magical place that feels extremely traditional, particularly at night. The exclusive tea houses where Japan's remaining geisha still perform are back here.
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I was actually a little put off by the lanterns and posters all the shops had up on the backstreets for some festival. I thought it really detracted from the ambience.
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Back on the main streets, I still am sometimes baffled by what Japanese establishments lurk in entertainment districts. See Skulls.
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Yasaka Jinja at night. The lanterns were all lit for nighttime hanami and the vendor stalls now populated.
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The big tree had come quite a ways in the few days we'd been Kyoto, but still not full.
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Ahh Hakone! Another place worth the effort to reserve, we stayed for a night at Ichinoyu, a very old onsen (hot spring) ryokan. This private outdoor bath was attached to our room.
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THe bath was fed by water from a hot spring, and overlooked a river and mountainside. With the walls on either side and the rush of the river, it was very private.
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A mysterious hole carved in the side of the mountain.
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A nice view of the river rushing past. The pictures are deceptive about how far down the river really was. I spent a lot of time relaxing in our private bath.
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In transit from Hakone to Fuji, we stopped and shared a GIANT parfait. This thing came in a pitcher. Use the glass and Greg's hand for size reference.
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To understand this parfait, you have to understand the Japanese obsession with them. This menu is representative.
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I was so pleased the clouds parted while we were in the Fuji area enough for me to photograph the snow cap.
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Our hotel at Fuji was right on the lakefront of Kawaguchiko, one of the five lakes.
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Our last day in Tokyo, while Greg spent a second day at Tokyo Disney Sea, I finally encountered a fully blooming regular sakura tree!
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Rokugien, a delightful little park hidden away in Tokyo.
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I am sure that stone on the island had some significance, but I don't know what.
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Our final night I took Greg to the Vampire Cafe, to experience the height of Japanese theme dining. Here we have coffin shaped garlic toast.
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And this elaborate desert with a bat on top was Dracula's Tower.
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I pose beside the coffin in the room where we dined.
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